Monday, February 22, 2010

Oh Dear, Oban

My friend, Dana, and I went on a day trip, provided for only £10 by Napier, to Oban. This seaside town is located along the northwest coast in the Highlands. We literally traveled across the country to get there and it only took a few hours. That's amazing to me when I think that it would take days to drive across the US.

Along the way, (we took a scenic route, rather than the most direct) we saw many castles including Kilchurn and Doune. The latter of these was used in Monty Python and the Holy Grail. I know some of you will appreciate that. I wasn't able to get a picture, though, because we were moving too fast and it would have been too difficult to stop.

We did stop along the way, though. The first stop was to see a Highland Cow. He's famous, but for the life of me, I've no idea why. He was HUGE and absolutely adorable. We had a great tour guide and bus driver who made some interesting and dirty (yes, dirty) jokes. Very entertaining.

The second stop was only for coffee and restrooms. Not much to say there.

Then we reached Oban around 1pm. We only had two hours in the town and Dana and I used that time to go up to McCaig's Tower (an unfinished colloseum of sorts) and we began a walk to Dunolie Castle. However, along the way, the pathway stopped and we decided we didn't want to walk on the road itself. A ruined and crumbling castle, magical as it may have looked, was not worth risking our safety. Next time.

We hopped on the bus and on the way back to Edinburgh, made two more stops. The first was only about five minutes in length. We stopped on the other side of the lake from where Kilchurn Castle is located and took some amazing pictures.

The second stop was in a little (and I mean TINY) town called Inverary where a castle is located. The Duke's family still lives in the castle and it's open during the summer months, but we couldn't go past the gate. It really does look like a fairy tale castle. Absolutely beautiful.

I haven't mentioned the natural beauty of the place. It's indescribable, but I'll do my best. Some of the lochs were so still that the mountains towering over them as well as the clouds above were reflected perfectly like a mirror on their surfaces. It's breathtaking to see such beauty. Some of the mountains just kept going past the edge of the water, not even creating a shoreline at all. We saw frozen waterfalls and snow-covered mountains, though not all of the crests had all that white stuff on them. Many were still green.

It's amazing how green everything still is, even so far north as we were. It just shows you that it's the snow that kills our grass back home and not really the cold. It was pretty cold where we were. But it's absolutely beautiful.

I guess that's about all I've got to say about Oban. I recommend it. It's the gateway to many of the isles surrounding Scotland like the Isle of Mull. Ferries go here and there and, in the summer, the population of Oban doubles because of the tourists who come through to go island hopping.

So...

Kilts checked to date... 57

Saturday, February 13, 2010

Bad Luck and a Castle in Aberdeen

Let's start with the castle, shall we? Dana and I took the train to Aberdeen on Thursday. When we got there, we went directly to our hostel, checked in, ate dinner across the street, had Starbucks, and went to bed.

Did I mention Aberdeen is not the easiest place to get around in? Street signs, for one, would be a lovely touch.

But, the next day...
We were up and out of the hostel before 10am. And if you know me, you know that I rarely do anything before noon if I can help it, so this was a major step for me. After finding the tourist information center two blocks from the train station (poor planning, if you ask me), Dana and I made our way to the bus stop (right next to the train station) and caught a bus to Stonehaven, which was technically back the way we had come the night before.

Once in Stonehaven, we caught another bus to a road leading to Dunnottar Castle. The bus stop was literally in the middle of nowhere. Literally. No sidewalks even. So we walked down the road until we hit a car park and then turned right to walk out to the castle which was built onto an outcropping of rock. It's a cliff. You go down some steps and then back up some more to get to the gateway.

Dunnottar Castle is literally in ruins. Most of the buildings are still standing, but there are basically no roofs and, except for the ground floors made of earth or stone, there are no floors. We went up some spiral staircases where the tops were fenced off because they led to nowhere. It was super cool!

I took a ton of pictures. Check them out of Facebook.

Dana and I then caught a bus back to Aberdeen where we walked around, bought a souvenir or two, and wasted away the time until our train was scheduled to depart: 9pm.

We saw Merkat Cross, His Majesty's Theater and the Art Gallery.

We got on the train, no problem, but before we had even reached our first stop (Stonehaven), we stopped... and stopped... and waited... and waited some more. There were problems in front of us. A freight train had broken down. It couldn't be moved until the morning. These announcements came ever thirty minutes or so starting about forty-five minutes after we had initially stopped. So, finally they told us we would be heading back to Aberdeen where alternative transportation had been made. It was supposed to take 5 or 6 minutes for us to leave. Thirty to forty minutes later, we finally left.

We got back to the train station where we were directed to buses. By the time we left, headed for Dundee where we would swap onto either another bus or into taxis, it was 11:35. We would basically have been back in Edinburgh by then if there had been no problems.

So, we make a few stops along the way for passengers not headed to Dundee or beyond. Then we get to Dundee. There is one taxi bound for Sterling and Glasgow. We wait in the freezing train/bus station for another taxi. It takes us to Edinburgh. I have to direct the driver from the airport. With the construction because of the tram system (which they are creating for the city), we got a bit turned around, but finally found our way to the flats. At about 2:45am.

I am never going back to Aberdeen. That city will not get any more money from me. Nope.

But, the castle did make it all worth while, I have to say. It was a ton of fun. And there are bound to be bumps along the way wherever you go in life. Deep, I know.

Kilts checked to date... 50.

Sunday, February 7, 2010

Heaven For the History Buff

I can finally kick back and relax after a fun-filled weekend in London. By myself. But fun, nonetheless. Where to begin? How about the beginning? Sound good to you? Doesn't matter does it? I'm the one writing this.

To start, my flight left Edinburgh for London's Luton Airport at seven. AM. Do you know how early I had to get up? You don't want to know I can some it up with this checklist:

Walk through an all but deserted city alone in the dark... check.
Walk by a creepy cemetery in an all but deserted city alone in the dark... check.

Nuff said.

Oh and I realized that, unless you have an early flight like I did, you had probably better leave at least two and a half hours early. That's if you're flying out of Edinburgh. I did just that and by the time I got through security and got to my gate, I had twenty-two minutes before I had to board.

I got to my first stop around 8:45am; the House of Parliament. Almost as soon as I took my first step onto the sidewalk, it started raining as if to welcome me to England. Granted, I had already been in Edinburgh almost four weeks. Same island. Same weather. Still...

But I digress. My first mission was to find a toilet. I sort of lingered though. I walked by the London Eye, the Houses of Parliament, Big Ben (aka the Clock Tower), Westminster Abbey, etc. Then I made my way to Victoria's Square (sort of by accident since I was just wandering around). Not a whole lot to see there, but I snapped some photos of Westminster Cathedral; not to be confused with Westminster Abbey. I did find a toilet though. Yay!

I wandered over to Buckingham Palace during the changing of the guard. I lucked out on that since I didn't make it back at that time again for the rest of the trip. I just happened to be there at the right time, though I couldn't see everything inside the gates. Found out later that they only do the major ceremony every other day. So if you're waiting outside Buckingham Palace at 11:30am and nothing's happening (or nothing much), don't worry. It'll be going on tomorrow. Pain in the butt to get through those crowds though.

Then I walked over the Piccadilly Circus (lots of shopping to be done, food to be eaten, and things to be seen). I had lunch and then went through a museum. Fun stuff. Cute guy at the entrance sort of hit on me, but... he was 31. Deal breaker, right there.

At that point, it was about four in the afternoon and I decided it was time to find my hostel. I had been walking around all day with my backpack on because I had informed the hostel upon booking that I wouldn't be in until later. No big deal. The backpack wasn't heavy or anything. I made it to the hostel in about 45 minutes. Suffice it to say, my feet hurt so bad that I was basically in for the night. I also already had blisters. No fun.

The second day my feet only felt better for about an hour. This time, however, I was smart enough to take the underground. My only planned activity for the day was a free walking tour provided by a company called New Europe Tours. They're in quite a few majors cities in... you guessed it: Europe.*

I've got to give these free tours at least four stars out of five. Considering the fact that they are free, they are wonderful. The guides have been so engaging and entertaining, not to mention knowledgeable about what they do. I highly recommend them. These tours are offered, as I said, in most major cities in Europe and the guides on the free tours, as you can imagine, work only for tips. They will tell you this and I urge you to at least give them something. It's polite and they work hard to memorize all the information they tell you, not to mention that information they have to have to answer questions (which are sometimes really bizarre).

Now that I have plugged New Europe Tours... I shall continue. When the tour was over, I took the underground to the Tower of London. In the heart of a bustling city. The thought is just amazing to me. I ate fish and chips (though it wasn't as good as I'd had in Edinburgh) with a view of the Tower and Tower Bridge** behind it.

That night, I met a group to do the Grim Reaper Tour (also offered by New Europe). Don't worry, the company offers student prices for everything. Check out their website for more info.
It was about 2 hours or so in length, going around the Tower, East End and then following in some of Jack the Ripper's footsteps. So much fun. This guide spoke a bit fast, but seemed genuinely excited about everything he said. Everything.

On my third day, Friday, I went back to the Tower and actually went inside. Heave for the history buff. There was a 45-minute walking tour included in the entry price. It was very interesting and fun. Extremely entertaining.

I got to see the Crown Jewels (shiny...), visit a palace that is nearly a thousand years old, and see where Anne Boleyn was beheaded, along with many other of the nobles accused of treason. I walked in history for a few hours. I touched history. So. Cool.

That night, I headed back to Piccadilly Square. I remembered what friends of mine had said about seeing shows and on my first day I had seen some discount tickets booths. I got a ticket to see Avenue Q for 35. (I can't do the pound sign without a number pad. Sorry) Haven't heard of Avenue Q, you say? Think Sesame Street for adults... Funny as hell. My abs actually hurt from laughing so hard. That was the end of my night.

The last day was Saturday (minus the day I left, of course). I had to decide what I thought I could do in the amount of time left, given travel time, etc. Hampton Court Palace was my decision. Ever heard of King Henry VIII? Yeah, that was where he lived. He wasn't the one who built it, though. A priest who later became a cardinal (Wolsey) built it and Henry liked it, so he took it, building onto it from there and adding his crest everywhere. The palace was a royal residence for centuries, though now it is a tourist attraction and historical site. It's huge.

Actors portray Henry and, occasionally, his wives and other members of the court. I went on a day when they were reenacting the wedding day of Henry VIII to his last wife, Katryn Parr. I also got to see the story of young Henry, up to the point where he divorced Catherine of Aragon and married Anne Boleyn. Very interesting to see that side of him.

Anyway, the palace was built onto by William III and Mary II (Elizabeth I's successors when she died without an heir) and of course that looks much "newer". Weird to use that word when stating the difference between the late 1500's and early 1600's. The grounds are very extensive with all the gardens (not to mention the actual buildings) and there's a MAZE! Haha. William III had it made and it's one of the first of its kind. Cool, huh? Ok, so I'm being way more "history teacher" than "gushing tourist". I get carried away. Sorry.

I ended up seeing Chicago (also for a discounted price) on Saturday as well. Amazing. I wasn't crazy about the actress playing Velma Kelly, but it's sort of because she seemed to put almost TOO much attitude into the songs. I couldn't always understand her. Otherwise, everything was wonderful. The actress playing Roxie was phenomenal. Fun times, even by myself.

As to my travel and hostel...
Easyjet: Not bad. Really cramped, but cheap (if you don't check bags and don't buy drinks/snacks on board). Just don't use them if you're claustrophobic.
West Two Hostel: I'd heard a few bad reviews. No, it's really not that clean, but I saw no bugs. The beds were actually kinda soft even if the pillows were flat and not so soft. They don't have towels for hire, which I knew. They have free coffee and tea and that's about it, but a hot shower and a bed was all I needed. It had what I needed and I didn't find anything to complain about.

All in all, I had a great time. I successfully navigated London all by myself for four and a half days. AWESOME! I mean, I know I have a pretty good sense of direction, but I surprised myself. By the way, on the way back to Edinburgh, here is the transportation I took (minus walking to and from stops):
Underground from hostel to train station.
Train to Luton.
Bus to airport.
Plane to Edinburgh.
Bus to City Centre of Edinburgh.
Bus to flat.

Yeah, that is just one way. I recommend getting an all-day ticket for the underground when you get to London and, if you go to Hampton Court Palace, get an all day train ticket. It's cheaper than getting the round trip ticket.

Um. I think that's it! I had a great time, but the place is filthy. Bring hand sanitizer and your sense of adventure. Not to mention a camera.

Kilts checked to date... 47.

*You may remember I did this in Edinburgh on my first weekend. Same company.

**Note: Tower Bridge and London Bridge are not the same thing. Tower Bridge was built between 1886 and 1892. London Bridge was built in about 43AD (or BCE, if you like). It was the only bridge crossing the Thames at the time.